During the last few days in Nairobi it has become painfully clear to me that if I decide to live in any city for an extended period of time, I absolutely can not live the “expatriate lifestyle”. Almost every part of every day has felt manufactured and surreal. Hamburgers, hummus and pita bread, cinnamon rolls, and a whole bunch of other crap that was obviously imported and that I would almost never touch at home. So why am I eating it here?!?!? Why is it “so difficult” to find a restaurant that prepares Kenyan food??? Though I will admit that during Havanna night, I thoroughly enjoyed the prawns and tostones! =)
But it is extremely frustrating when the wait staff is a caught off guard when I request Kenya tea or coffee and insist that I do not want Lipton, Tetley, or an Americano. I pay $2 every morning for Mayorga coffee, which is in my opinion the absolute best Kenyan coffee in DC and it doesn’t hurt that their “African” blend is a mixture of beans from Kenya, Ethiopia, Cameroon, and Uganda. But since I’ve been in Kenya, it’s been almost impossible to get “local” coffee! This doesn’t make sense…
Oh, but it does. While on my way to Java House, a popular spot in expat central, I asked my driver to recommend a good Kenyan restaurant for my last night in town. He immediately told me that I wouldn’t like Kenyan food, if I didn’t like meat. Who told him that I didn’t like meat?!?!? In his defense, this is what he assumed. I’m sure he’s come across quite a few vegetarians from abroad.
I hope that I’ll get the chance to visit again soon because don’t feel like I’ve experienced Kenya at all. I haven’t seen anything that distinguishes it from any other city in the world. But then again, I am off to Juba shortly, so I may be in store for quite a treat... be it good or bad...
Showing posts with label kenya. Show all posts
Showing posts with label kenya. Show all posts
3.06.2010
Majority/Minority… Huh?
I’m still a bit confused… Why do I, a black girl, feel like a minority in East Africa??? But on the other hand, I’ve been around so many Americans, that I kind of feel like Im in the majority, and haven’t even left DC.
The night at Havanna was fun, but as I said, made me feel like I never left home in so many ways. Oddly enough, the bathroom was one of the most alarming points. As I was waiting in line for the bathroom (because it makes sense to have only one ladies’ stall in a restaurant/bar with over 100 people drinking profusely), I couldn’t help but notice that everyone sounded just like me! My “American” accent didn’t stick out like a sore thumb. But what was most odd, was that no one was surprised that I was American. Usually when I travel, I’m used to people being taken aback once I start speaking because they assume that I am a local. Nope, not here.
The night at Havanna was fun, but as I said, made me feel like I never left home in so many ways. Oddly enough, the bathroom was one of the most alarming points. As I was waiting in line for the bathroom (because it makes sense to have only one ladies’ stall in a restaurant/bar with over 100 people drinking profusely), I couldn’t help but notice that everyone sounded just like me! My “American” accent didn’t stick out like a sore thumb. But what was most odd, was that no one was surprised that I was American. Usually when I travel, I’m used to people being taken aback once I start speaking because they assume that I am a local. Nope, not here.
3.05.2010
Nairobi Nights
Apparently, in Nairobi’s expat community, the weekend starts on Thursday night. I could have sworn that I was telecast to Marshall Street or College Park or Adams Morgan (or any other college town for those of you who are unfamiliar with those locales). My colleague and I went to a Cuban restaurant for dinner and drinks for her friend. When we walked in, the scene was quite overwhelming. The bar was packed and people were literally hovering over each other talking, drinking, and having a good time. I was actually taken aback because I wasn’t expecting any of this- at all. I don’t know if it’s because it was only my second night in the cit or the clientele, which I wasn’t expecting, but it was all a lot to take in, especially at once. Luckily, we were able to retreat to the back of the restaurant and found a table in the corner, where the scene was a bit less “overwhelming”.
The food was DELICIOUS! It was Cuban and I had prawns with tostones (fried green plaintains). I thoroughly enjoyed my meal along with a bottle of wine and great conversation. I almost forgot where I was until it was time to leave our little nook in the corner of the restaurant.
Walking back out and through the bar centered party that had literally tripled in size was quite an experience. In addition to the young professional expats who were by this time fairly drunk, some Kenyan prostitutes joined the party. Under normal circumstances, I would have been a tad bit self-conscious that someone might mistaken me for a prostitute, but luckily I was fully dressed. Them, not so much… But they were having a great time, gyrating against smitten European men, while onlookers got sneak peaks of their “goodies”.
As I meandered through the crowd, one decided to greet me with a head butt to the forehead. For a split second I wondered if she thought I had encroached into her territory and was fighting me for her “track”, but then she profusely apologized and I acknowledged that she was drunk and in an effort to impress her potential john, she exaggerated her laugh, throwing her head back and right into my forehead. Great.
But I was able to escape and without any knots on my head in the morning.
The food was DELICIOUS! It was Cuban and I had prawns with tostones (fried green plaintains). I thoroughly enjoyed my meal along with a bottle of wine and great conversation. I almost forgot where I was until it was time to leave our little nook in the corner of the restaurant.
Walking back out and through the bar centered party that had literally tripled in size was quite an experience. In addition to the young professional expats who were by this time fairly drunk, some Kenyan prostitutes joined the party. Under normal circumstances, I would have been a tad bit self-conscious that someone might mistaken me for a prostitute, but luckily I was fully dressed. Them, not so much… But they were having a great time, gyrating against smitten European men, while onlookers got sneak peaks of their “goodies”.
As I meandered through the crowd, one decided to greet me with a head butt to the forehead. For a split second I wondered if she thought I had encroached into her territory and was fighting me for her “track”, but then she profusely apologized and I acknowledged that she was drunk and in an effort to impress her potential john, she exaggerated her laugh, throwing her head back and right into my forehead. Great.
But I was able to escape and without any knots on my head in the morning.
3.04.2010
Rediscovering My Youth- Africa’s Infatuation with 90s Music
I’ve noticed that many Africans (I hate to generalize the whole continent, but it’s true) have a deep appreciation of 90s RnB and Contemporary Pop music. And I love every minute of it!!! Today while doing work in a local coffee shop, my colleague and I were crooned to the sounds of Boyz to Men, Brandy’s entire Full Moon album, Aaliyah, and I almost jumped for joy when Shania Twain and Celine Dione came on. She thinks that I am completely cheesy for enjoying it so much, especially Celine Dione- my colleague is also Canadian, but I can’t help myself! There’s something about hearing “Water Runs Dry”, “Full Moon”, “At Your Best You Are Loved”, “From This Moment”, and “It’s All Coming Back to Me” consecutively that just soothes my soul!
Some of the best music was put out in the 90s and I wish there were public radio stations that were dedicated to it. It was probably the last period in music where I appreciated music from every genre. Aerosmith, Tanya Tucker, Alanis Morrisette, Nirvana, Greenday, Hanson, Total, LL Cool J, Jodeci, Wu Tang Clan, Brandy, Whitney Houston, and of course Mariah Carey- you name it, I liked it! And they play it allll here!
Some of the best music was put out in the 90s and I wish there were public radio stations that were dedicated to it. It was probably the last period in music where I appreciated music from every genre. Aerosmith, Tanya Tucker, Alanis Morrisette, Nirvana, Greenday, Hanson, Total, LL Cool J, Jodeci, Wu Tang Clan, Brandy, Whitney Houston, and of course Mariah Carey- you name it, I liked it! And they play it allll here!
3.03.2010
What a Calm Airport
I've arrived in Nairobi!!! And is it odd that the thing that has struck/pleased me the most is the fact that this is one of the calmest airports I've ever arrived in???
No one harassed me about my yellow fever card, no one rifled through my luggage, no one even asked for bribes (major!). The most annoying part of my arrival were the tourists who stood in the line for those who already had visas, even though they had to purchase theirs. This tacked an extra half hour to my wait time, but it was okay because everything else was stress free! My colleague and our driver were even waiting for me when I walked out sans harrassment!!!
For a recap of a not so "stress free" and more "authentic" experience, read here and here.
No one harassed me about my yellow fever card, no one rifled through my luggage, no one even asked for bribes (major!). The most annoying part of my arrival were the tourists who stood in the line for those who already had visas, even though they had to purchase theirs. This tacked an extra half hour to my wait time, but it was okay because everything else was stress free! My colleague and our driver were even waiting for me when I walked out sans harrassment!!!
For a recap of a not so "stress free" and more "authentic" experience, read here and here.
2.25.2010
Loooong Overdue
I haven't updated my blog in almost exactly a year. This is completely unacceptable. Soon I am leaving for a trip to Sudan via Nairobi where I assume I'll rejuvenate my muse.
2.02.2009
Poverty Kills
Yesterday, over 100 people and counting were killed and another 200 plus severely injured when a gas tanker overturned and civilians rushed to siphon gas from the truck. To their dismay, the truck cut on fire, causing a fatal catastrophe.
It's difficult to understand why anyone in their right mind would run towards an overturned gas truck, but hundreds of people could only think of the benefits of free fuel and put their lives on the line. Sadly, the outcome was a great loss of life.
This morning I almost came to tears looking at images of people sprawled out on the floors of Kenyan hospitals, which could not absorb the number of people with life threatening burns and injuries.
I remember when the same thing happened in Cameroon and in Nigeria. Though high, the casualties were less than in this instance and you have to wonder at which point will people learn that fuel to last a few weeks is not worth the rest of your lives! But poverty kills in so many ways....
It's difficult to understand why anyone in their right mind would run towards an overturned gas truck, but hundreds of people could only think of the benefits of free fuel and put their lives on the line. Sadly, the outcome was a great loss of life.
This morning I almost came to tears looking at images of people sprawled out on the floors of Kenyan hospitals, which could not absorb the number of people with life threatening burns and injuries.
I remember when the same thing happened in Cameroon and in Nigeria. Though high, the casualties were less than in this instance and you have to wonder at which point will people learn that fuel to last a few weeks is not worth the rest of your lives! But poverty kills in so many ways....
9.17.2008
Operation Rudi Nyumbani Community Disdain is Brewing
I have been following the developments of Operation Rudi Nyumbani and have not been comfortable with the policy nor the way it has been implemented. Unfortunately, my worry was not in vain.
The closure of camps has been delayed because there is a great deal of confusion over who should receive compensation in order to return home and some citizens feel that conditions in their land of origin are not secure enough for them to return home and some even have no where to return. Though in the BBC report, the district commissioner of the Rift Valley has cast aside many of the complaints as false reports from opportunists, the International Organization for Migration (IOM) reports that 60% of the families are returning home to severely damaged homes and villages, that need to be restored before citizens can live safe and comfortably.
There is a clear need for Kenyan community officials to objectively assess and remedy this situation lest they face disgruntled and slighted citizens.
The closure of camps has been delayed because there is a great deal of confusion over who should receive compensation in order to return home and some citizens feel that conditions in their land of origin are not secure enough for them to return home and some even have no where to return. Though in the BBC report, the district commissioner of the Rift Valley has cast aside many of the complaints as false reports from opportunists, the International Organization for Migration (IOM) reports that 60% of the families are returning home to severely damaged homes and villages, that need to be restored before citizens can live safe and comfortably.
There is a clear need for Kenyan community officials to objectively assess and remedy this situation lest they face disgruntled and slighted citizens.
8.04.2008
Operation Return Home- If You Can Prove You Had One
A few months ago, I wrote about Operation Rudi Nyumbani, a government project aimed at returning IDPs to their homes. This project incorporated an element of compensation for those who had been displaced due to election violence. Upon hearing about this plan, my immediate concern was how the government would ensure that all citizens received their due compensation and those that were not displaced did not unduly benefit.
It seems as though Kenya has applied some very strict and seemingly unfair land laws in order to remedy this situation.
IDPs have been categorized as landowners, leaving those who can't prove land ownership with nowhere to go. However those that have been truly displaced including sharecroppers, squatters, and migrant workers are left in the camps to fend for themselves and are ineligible to benefit from government assistance.
Besides the fact that modern land policies should not be applied to traditional societies, all citizens affected by the political and economic conditions in Kenya, should be provided government assistance. They should not be forced to negotiate inane policies that only further exacerbate their current conditions. Kenya needs to immediately reassess the implementation of their return plan and ensure that citizens aren't once again left out in the cold, perpetuating a cycle of not only poverty, but aggressive and violent disdain for the government.
It seems as though Kenya has applied some very strict and seemingly unfair land laws in order to remedy this situation.
IDPs have been categorized as landowners, leaving those who can't prove land ownership with nowhere to go. However those that have been truly displaced including sharecroppers, squatters, and migrant workers are left in the camps to fend for themselves and are ineligible to benefit from government assistance.
Besides the fact that modern land policies should not be applied to traditional societies, all citizens affected by the political and economic conditions in Kenya, should be provided government assistance. They should not be forced to negotiate inane policies that only further exacerbate their current conditions. Kenya needs to immediately reassess the implementation of their return plan and ensure that citizens aren't once again left out in the cold, perpetuating a cycle of not only poverty, but aggressive and violent disdain for the government.
5.12.2008
Operation Rudi Nyumbani
Kenya has begun the process of resettling those displaced due to election violence, dubbed: Operation Rudi Nyumbani. Though, many have told the government that they will not return home until they are compensated for their loss. They say that they are not being properly ensured that their resettlements will be facilitated. and have also complained of inadequate protection in their home communities.
In response, the government has begun a quest to raise $500 million to help the IDPs return home. Some feel that though this may be necessary because of the loss many IDPs have suffered, the Kenyan government has dug a deep hole for itself by promising compensation to those that were displaced. There has already been a trend of people not living in camps, traveling to them in order to receive aid. How will the government control and verify that those who were actually displaced receive compensation. More importantly, where will the government get the funds to compensate the hundreds of thousands of people who were displaced? Election violence is nothing new to Kenya. And though the most recent wave of violence was on a larger scale, political conflict has plagued the region since its independence and is highly foreseeable in the future. As well intentioned as compensation is, it is not a wise precedent to set if it cannot be immediately fulfilled or maintained in the coming years.
In response, the government has begun a quest to raise $500 million to help the IDPs return home. Some feel that though this may be necessary because of the loss many IDPs have suffered, the Kenyan government has dug a deep hole for itself by promising compensation to those that were displaced. There has already been a trend of people not living in camps, traveling to them in order to receive aid. How will the government control and verify that those who were actually displaced receive compensation. More importantly, where will the government get the funds to compensate the hundreds of thousands of people who were displaced? Election violence is nothing new to Kenya. And though the most recent wave of violence was on a larger scale, political conflict has plagued the region since its independence and is highly foreseeable in the future. As well intentioned as compensation is, it is not a wise precedent to set if it cannot be immediately fulfilled or maintained in the coming years.
4.15.2008
Are they Displaced the Only Ones Who Deserve Aid?
Currently, there is conflict surrounding refugee and displaced people, where locals who are still fortunate to live in their homes, feel that those in camps are receiving better treatment than they are. Aid agencies often overlook the fact that though those that are living in camps are obviously unable to provide for themselves, due to their displacement, most likely those living in the communities surrounding the camps are struggling as well, but were fortunately located in areas that were not directly impacted by conflict, but they still lack basic needs.
Some community members feel so neglected that they often go to camps and pose as dwellers in order to receive the rations given to those who actually live there. Should this be viewed as theft, greed, or perhaps an unavoidable issue that needs to be addressed?
Kenya: Red Cross Complains of Fake Refugees
The East African Standard (Nairobi)
13 April 2008
Posted to the web 14 April 2008
Peter Mutai And Roselyn Obala
Nairobi
The Kenya Red Cross Society Secretary-General Mr Abbas Gullet says half of the 14, 000 people camping at Nakuru Showground are not genuine internally displaced persons.
Gullet said an estimated 7,000 people were taking advantage of the situation to get free food and other humanitarian assistance. He said the masqueraders wanted to use the opportunity to get compensation from the Government.
Speaking at the Nakuru DC's office on Saturday morning, Gullet said the alleged IDPs were only found at the camp during the day and retreated to stay with relatives at night.
Accompanied by a representative of the UNHCR, Mr Liz Ahua, they were received by senior DO 1, Mr Albert Mulita.
He called on the Government to look for ways of getting rid of the masqueraders. At the same time, Gullet said some militia groups have infiltrated the camp.
Separately, IDPs at Kakamega Police Station have expressed fears of disease outbreak due to adverse weather conditions.
Their spokesman, Mr Peter Munyiri, said more than 400 people at the camp have leaking tents.
Munyiri said the IDPs were being forced to sit all night due to the heavy rains. "Children are the worst affected and are prone to malaria and pneumonia," he said.
Some community members feel so neglected that they often go to camps and pose as dwellers in order to receive the rations given to those who actually live there. Should this be viewed as theft, greed, or perhaps an unavoidable issue that needs to be addressed?
Kenya: Red Cross Complains of Fake Refugees
The East African Standard (Nairobi)
13 April 2008
Posted to the web 14 April 2008
Peter Mutai And Roselyn Obala
Nairobi
The Kenya Red Cross Society Secretary-General Mr Abbas Gullet says half of the 14, 000 people camping at Nakuru Showground are not genuine internally displaced persons.
Gullet said an estimated 7,000 people were taking advantage of the situation to get free food and other humanitarian assistance. He said the masqueraders wanted to use the opportunity to get compensation from the Government.
Speaking at the Nakuru DC's office on Saturday morning, Gullet said the alleged IDPs were only found at the camp during the day and retreated to stay with relatives at night.
Accompanied by a representative of the UNHCR, Mr Liz Ahua, they were received by senior DO 1, Mr Albert Mulita.
He called on the Government to look for ways of getting rid of the masqueraders. At the same time, Gullet said some militia groups have infiltrated the camp.
Separately, IDPs at Kakamega Police Station have expressed fears of disease outbreak due to adverse weather conditions.
Their spokesman, Mr Peter Munyiri, said more than 400 people at the camp have leaking tents.
Munyiri said the IDPs were being forced to sit all night due to the heavy rains. "Children are the worst affected and are prone to malaria and pneumonia," he said.
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