During the last few days in Nairobi it has become painfully clear to me that if I decide to live in any city for an extended period of time, I absolutely can not live the “expatriate lifestyle”. Almost every part of every day has felt manufactured and surreal. Hamburgers, hummus and pita bread, cinnamon rolls, and a whole bunch of other crap that was obviously imported and that I would almost never touch at home. So why am I eating it here?!?!? Why is it “so difficult” to find a restaurant that prepares Kenyan food??? Though I will admit that during Havanna night, I thoroughly enjoyed the prawns and tostones! =)
But it is extremely frustrating when the wait staff is a caught off guard when I request Kenya tea or coffee and insist that I do not want Lipton, Tetley, or an Americano. I pay $2 every morning for Mayorga coffee, which is in my opinion the absolute best Kenyan coffee in DC and it doesn’t hurt that their “African” blend is a mixture of beans from Kenya, Ethiopia, Cameroon, and Uganda. But since I’ve been in Kenya, it’s been almost impossible to get “local” coffee! This doesn’t make sense…
Oh, but it does. While on my way to Java House, a popular spot in expat central, I asked my driver to recommend a good Kenyan restaurant for my last night in town. He immediately told me that I wouldn’t like Kenyan food, if I didn’t like meat. Who told him that I didn’t like meat?!?!? In his defense, this is what he assumed. I’m sure he’s come across quite a few vegetarians from abroad.
I hope that I’ll get the chance to visit again soon because don’t feel like I’ve experienced Kenya at all. I haven’t seen anything that distinguishes it from any other city in the world. But then again, I am off to Juba shortly, so I may be in store for quite a treat... be it good or bad...
3.06.2010
Majority/Minority… Huh?
I’m still a bit confused… Why do I, a black girl, feel like a minority in East Africa??? But on the other hand, I’ve been around so many Americans, that I kind of feel like Im in the majority, and haven’t even left DC.
The night at Havanna was fun, but as I said, made me feel like I never left home in so many ways. Oddly enough, the bathroom was one of the most alarming points. As I was waiting in line for the bathroom (because it makes sense to have only one ladies’ stall in a restaurant/bar with over 100 people drinking profusely), I couldn’t help but notice that everyone sounded just like me! My “American” accent didn’t stick out like a sore thumb. But what was most odd, was that no one was surprised that I was American. Usually when I travel, I’m used to people being taken aback once I start speaking because they assume that I am a local. Nope, not here.
The night at Havanna was fun, but as I said, made me feel like I never left home in so many ways. Oddly enough, the bathroom was one of the most alarming points. As I was waiting in line for the bathroom (because it makes sense to have only one ladies’ stall in a restaurant/bar with over 100 people drinking profusely), I couldn’t help but notice that everyone sounded just like me! My “American” accent didn’t stick out like a sore thumb. But what was most odd, was that no one was surprised that I was American. Usually when I travel, I’m used to people being taken aback once I start speaking because they assume that I am a local. Nope, not here.
3.05.2010
Nairobi Nights
Apparently, in Nairobi’s expat community, the weekend starts on Thursday night. I could have sworn that I was telecast to Marshall Street or College Park or Adams Morgan (or any other college town for those of you who are unfamiliar with those locales). My colleague and I went to a Cuban restaurant for dinner and drinks for her friend. When we walked in, the scene was quite overwhelming. The bar was packed and people were literally hovering over each other talking, drinking, and having a good time. I was actually taken aback because I wasn’t expecting any of this- at all. I don’t know if it’s because it was only my second night in the cit or the clientele, which I wasn’t expecting, but it was all a lot to take in, especially at once. Luckily, we were able to retreat to the back of the restaurant and found a table in the corner, where the scene was a bit less “overwhelming”.
The food was DELICIOUS! It was Cuban and I had prawns with tostones (fried green plaintains). I thoroughly enjoyed my meal along with a bottle of wine and great conversation. I almost forgot where I was until it was time to leave our little nook in the corner of the restaurant.
Walking back out and through the bar centered party that had literally tripled in size was quite an experience. In addition to the young professional expats who were by this time fairly drunk, some Kenyan prostitutes joined the party. Under normal circumstances, I would have been a tad bit self-conscious that someone might mistaken me for a prostitute, but luckily I was fully dressed. Them, not so much… But they were having a great time, gyrating against smitten European men, while onlookers got sneak peaks of their “goodies”.
As I meandered through the crowd, one decided to greet me with a head butt to the forehead. For a split second I wondered if she thought I had encroached into her territory and was fighting me for her “track”, but then she profusely apologized and I acknowledged that she was drunk and in an effort to impress her potential john, she exaggerated her laugh, throwing her head back and right into my forehead. Great.
But I was able to escape and without any knots on my head in the morning.
The food was DELICIOUS! It was Cuban and I had prawns with tostones (fried green plaintains). I thoroughly enjoyed my meal along with a bottle of wine and great conversation. I almost forgot where I was until it was time to leave our little nook in the corner of the restaurant.
Walking back out and through the bar centered party that had literally tripled in size was quite an experience. In addition to the young professional expats who were by this time fairly drunk, some Kenyan prostitutes joined the party. Under normal circumstances, I would have been a tad bit self-conscious that someone might mistaken me for a prostitute, but luckily I was fully dressed. Them, not so much… But they were having a great time, gyrating against smitten European men, while onlookers got sneak peaks of their “goodies”.
As I meandered through the crowd, one decided to greet me with a head butt to the forehead. For a split second I wondered if she thought I had encroached into her territory and was fighting me for her “track”, but then she profusely apologized and I acknowledged that she was drunk and in an effort to impress her potential john, she exaggerated her laugh, throwing her head back and right into my forehead. Great.
But I was able to escape and without any knots on my head in the morning.
3.04.2010
Rediscovering My Youth- Africa’s Infatuation with 90s Music
I’ve noticed that many Africans (I hate to generalize the whole continent, but it’s true) have a deep appreciation of 90s RnB and Contemporary Pop music. And I love every minute of it!!! Today while doing work in a local coffee shop, my colleague and I were crooned to the sounds of Boyz to Men, Brandy’s entire Full Moon album, Aaliyah, and I almost jumped for joy when Shania Twain and Celine Dione came on. She thinks that I am completely cheesy for enjoying it so much, especially Celine Dione- my colleague is also Canadian, but I can’t help myself! There’s something about hearing “Water Runs Dry”, “Full Moon”, “At Your Best You Are Loved”, “From This Moment”, and “It’s All Coming Back to Me” consecutively that just soothes my soul!
Some of the best music was put out in the 90s and I wish there were public radio stations that were dedicated to it. It was probably the last period in music where I appreciated music from every genre. Aerosmith, Tanya Tucker, Alanis Morrisette, Nirvana, Greenday, Hanson, Total, LL Cool J, Jodeci, Wu Tang Clan, Brandy, Whitney Houston, and of course Mariah Carey- you name it, I liked it! And they play it allll here!
Some of the best music was put out in the 90s and I wish there were public radio stations that were dedicated to it. It was probably the last period in music where I appreciated music from every genre. Aerosmith, Tanya Tucker, Alanis Morrisette, Nirvana, Greenday, Hanson, Total, LL Cool J, Jodeci, Wu Tang Clan, Brandy, Whitney Houston, and of course Mariah Carey- you name it, I liked it! And they play it allll here!
3.03.2010
What a Calm Airport
I've arrived in Nairobi!!! And is it odd that the thing that has struck/pleased me the most is the fact that this is one of the calmest airports I've ever arrived in???
No one harassed me about my yellow fever card, no one rifled through my luggage, no one even asked for bribes (major!). The most annoying part of my arrival were the tourists who stood in the line for those who already had visas, even though they had to purchase theirs. This tacked an extra half hour to my wait time, but it was okay because everything else was stress free! My colleague and our driver were even waiting for me when I walked out sans harrassment!!!
For a recap of a not so "stress free" and more "authentic" experience, read here and here.
No one harassed me about my yellow fever card, no one rifled through my luggage, no one even asked for bribes (major!). The most annoying part of my arrival were the tourists who stood in the line for those who already had visas, even though they had to purchase theirs. This tacked an extra half hour to my wait time, but it was okay because everything else was stress free! My colleague and our driver were even waiting for me when I walked out sans harrassment!!!
For a recap of a not so "stress free" and more "authentic" experience, read here and here.
2.25.2010
Loooong Overdue
I haven't updated my blog in almost exactly a year. This is completely unacceptable. Soon I am leaving for a trip to Sudan via Nairobi where I assume I'll rejuvenate my muse.
2.02.2009
Poverty Kills
Yesterday, over 100 people and counting were killed and another 200 plus severely injured when a gas tanker overturned and civilians rushed to siphon gas from the truck. To their dismay, the truck cut on fire, causing a fatal catastrophe.
It's difficult to understand why anyone in their right mind would run towards an overturned gas truck, but hundreds of people could only think of the benefits of free fuel and put their lives on the line. Sadly, the outcome was a great loss of life.
This morning I almost came to tears looking at images of people sprawled out on the floors of Kenyan hospitals, which could not absorb the number of people with life threatening burns and injuries.
I remember when the same thing happened in Cameroon and in Nigeria. Though high, the casualties were less than in this instance and you have to wonder at which point will people learn that fuel to last a few weeks is not worth the rest of your lives! But poverty kills in so many ways....
It's difficult to understand why anyone in their right mind would run towards an overturned gas truck, but hundreds of people could only think of the benefits of free fuel and put their lives on the line. Sadly, the outcome was a great loss of life.
This morning I almost came to tears looking at images of people sprawled out on the floors of Kenyan hospitals, which could not absorb the number of people with life threatening burns and injuries.
I remember when the same thing happened in Cameroon and in Nigeria. Though high, the casualties were less than in this instance and you have to wonder at which point will people learn that fuel to last a few weeks is not worth the rest of your lives! But poverty kills in so many ways....
1.30.2009
BREAKING NEWS: Documented Human Rights Abuse in Cameroon
Yesterday, Amnesty International released a report (Cameroon: Impunity Underpins Persistent Abuse) asserting that Cameroon has used violent means to suppress anti-government protesters and cited large-scale protests against the constitutional amendment extending the presidents term of office as an example of wide spread human rights abuse.
Please note that my blog title is extremely sarcastic in the sense that Cameroonians have suffered from human rights abuse as long as President Paul Biya has been in power. Besides the fact that he is a dictator and has used corruption to eliminate any possibility for democracy, police officers shameless harass citizens on a daily basis and government abuse and corruption has become second nature and expected by most citizens. Biya has even shut down tv and radio stations that criticize him and expose his abuse of civilians.
I am happy, however, that Amnesty International has finally brought attention to what has been happening in Cameroon for decades and incidents that took place in February 2008 when President Biya amended the constitution, extending his presidential term limit. I remember when this happened my mother had planned to visit Cameroon that month, but she had to postpone her trip because major cities across the country were extremely chaotic. For days there were protests and rioting. Cars and business were looted and burned and the police killed over 100 civilians.
All of this went virtually ignored by the international press and President Biya has not been aggressively criticized by international leaders for his blatant abuse of power.
Biya will be 76 in two weeks and this is his 27th year in power. He has successfully stolen multiple elections. His amendment of the consitution to remove term limits will allow him to run again in 2011 for another 7 year term.
I won't go into the hypocrisy that the international community has shown throughout President Biya's regime, but I am happy that finally the violence that took place last February is being acknowledged by a group large enough to bring attention to and possibly discourage such rampant human rights abuse in Cameroon. What is even more despicable, as you should read in Amnesty's report is that they have been trying to legally research the incidents that have been reported to them in Cameroon, but the authorities will not give them consent! One can only hope that this report will shame the regime and authorities and they will put an end to this protracted abuses, especially with elections being held in the near future.
12.14.2008
Obama Girl!
I knew before traveling that there’d be a great deal of Obamania on this side of the hemisphere considering how closely the elections were followed around the world and media images and stories I’ve seen from African news outlets. I expected lots of questions about the elections and what I thought Obama would do for Africa. However, I haven’t really gotten much of that, but since arriving in Cameroon, my colleague and I are being constantly referred to as “Obama girls”. Luckily it’s an endearing term because I love Obama. I couldn’t imagine if I was referred to as a “Bush girl”. YUCK! It has so many negative connotations.
But the funniest part about being an “Obama Girl” in Cameroon is that most people consider the two of us “Black American” because we are here representing a US based organization. It’s a bit odd for me to be referred as such because I consider myself Cameroonian American, but it is even odder for my colleague who was born and raised in Cameroon! And it gets even funnier when we meet expats who try to educate us on the ways of Cameroon.
However, I credit this to the diversity of Cameroon. For instance, there are certain countries in the world where their citizens are easily identifiable by their features. But Cameroonians throughout the country look completely different. Im sure it has a lot to do with its central location on the continent, but I also think it has a great deal to do with the open door system of the land and its people. During this trip, I’ve witnessed how easily people flow in and out of the country. I’m sure this is an issue of border control, but its also influenced by how welcoming the people are. Right now I am traveling throughout towns bordering the Central African Republic. You can see CAR from here and Central Africans are constantly crossing the border. Below are pictures of Central Africans crossing a small river into Cameroon.
But the funniest part about being an “Obama Girl” in Cameroon is that most people consider the two of us “Black American” because we are here representing a US based organization. It’s a bit odd for me to be referred as such because I consider myself Cameroonian American, but it is even odder for my colleague who was born and raised in Cameroon! And it gets even funnier when we meet expats who try to educate us on the ways of Cameroon.
However, I credit this to the diversity of Cameroon. For instance, there are certain countries in the world where their citizens are easily identifiable by their features. But Cameroonians throughout the country look completely different. Im sure it has a lot to do with its central location on the continent, but I also think it has a great deal to do with the open door system of the land and its people. During this trip, I’ve witnessed how easily people flow in and out of the country. I’m sure this is an issue of border control, but its also influenced by how welcoming the people are. Right now I am traveling throughout towns bordering the Central African Republic. You can see CAR from here and Central Africans are constantly crossing the border. Below are pictures of Central Africans crossing a small river into Cameroon.
12.10.2008
The City is POPPIN
It feels so odd to be back in such a lively environment considering how relatively isolated I spent the last week and a half. CAR was completely desolate and the streets were usually empty by 9pm each night. But in Yaounde, I can barely sleep because people are outside my window singing, dancing, and talking loudly in the streets until all times of the night. There’s definitely a deejay on my block spinning hits from the last three decades. And it’s great (as long as I can fall asleep at a decent hour!).
Yaounde has definitely changed quite a bit since I was here. I don’t remember it being so New Yorkish, but it’s a great feeling. I can see myself living here if I’m given the right job with the right salary. I think it’s a great combination of the modernity Ive become accustomed to and the warm weather, great food, and sense of a familial community that I seek.
It’s also great to have options of food to eat. I hate to continue to compare the two, but my diet was quite static in CAR. I’ve already told you about our adventure trying to find dinner in the North, but even in Bangui there were very few choices. Choices were very limited because of security in the town. Though there is no fighting or rebel occupation like in other places, because the streets empty out by 9, its mostly people who are up to no good who are out during dinner hours. So during one of our first few nights, my colleague and I were harassed by a few street kids who were clearly high off drugs and it wasn’t a comfortable feeling. Also, everyone kept recommending to us the spots that expats frequent and they were usually not local restaurants. I did not come all the way to Central Africa to eat Chinese, but I was forced to on one night. Though I will say it’s the best Chinese food I’ve ever had! But Yaounde has been completely different, besides the plethora of street vendors, there’s a million restaurants on every block with absolutely delicious food and a varied selection. I’m definitely happy to be back in Cameroon.
Tomorrow I will be traveling to Bertoua, which is the capital of the Eastern region. The East is historically one of the poorest regions in the country and I am told that it is nothing like Yaounde or Douala. However, considering what I witnessed in CAR, I’m sure it will still be an upgrade!
Yaounde has definitely changed quite a bit since I was here. I don’t remember it being so New Yorkish, but it’s a great feeling. I can see myself living here if I’m given the right job with the right salary. I think it’s a great combination of the modernity Ive become accustomed to and the warm weather, great food, and sense of a familial community that I seek.
It’s also great to have options of food to eat. I hate to continue to compare the two, but my diet was quite static in CAR. I’ve already told you about our adventure trying to find dinner in the North, but even in Bangui there were very few choices. Choices were very limited because of security in the town. Though there is no fighting or rebel occupation like in other places, because the streets empty out by 9, its mostly people who are up to no good who are out during dinner hours. So during one of our first few nights, my colleague and I were harassed by a few street kids who were clearly high off drugs and it wasn’t a comfortable feeling. Also, everyone kept recommending to us the spots that expats frequent and they were usually not local restaurants. I did not come all the way to Central Africa to eat Chinese, but I was forced to on one night. Though I will say it’s the best Chinese food I’ve ever had! But Yaounde has been completely different, besides the plethora of street vendors, there’s a million restaurants on every block with absolutely delicious food and a varied selection. I’m definitely happy to be back in Cameroon.
Tomorrow I will be traveling to Bertoua, which is the capital of the Eastern region. The East is historically one of the poorest regions in the country and I am told that it is nothing like Yaounde or Douala. However, considering what I witnessed in CAR, I’m sure it will still be an upgrade!
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