12.09.2008
Au Revoir Bangui
The country is land locked, road locked, and as a result access locked. It is virtually impossible to travel freely throughout the country despite the security situation. The presence of rebels and bandits only further exacerbates the situation, but roads connecting major cities are not paved, there is virtually no policing, and there are no ports of entry. It’s a truly sad situation and there needs to be an overhaul in the regime in order to start addressing the needs of the people and the country.
On a more exciting note, when I thought traveling through rebel territory was frightening enough, my colleague and I decided to stop and talking to a group of rebels on our way back to Bangui. I was a nervous wreck because they all had rifles (old, but they still worked!) and they looked RUGGED! They called the commander of their unit out of his hiding place to speak with us and he was scary looking. He looked like he had been living in the bush for months, but I am almost positive he was simply living off the villagers. He had locked hair that was extremely dirty and was just scruffy. We spoke to him and second in command and though they wouldn’t go into details about their cause because they have an official spokesperson, one said he wanted peace while the other said he wanted power. Considering the fact that the peace dialogues between the government and rebel group begin on Monday, it may be a good idea for them to decide on an agenda…Unfortunately I did not take a picture of them. I was too scared to ask, but in the end it was a harmless encounter. A few of the rebels were peeking into our truck to see what we had, but it was more so curiosity because they didn’t touch anything or ask any questions. Even though I’m happy the rebels allowed us to travel through their occupied territory without disruption, its unfortunate that they often completely terrorize and loot the villages and communities they are supposedly fighting for.
12.08.2008
What are two Cameroonians doing in CAR?
The question should be what are the French, Americans, Canadians, Germans, British, etc. doing in CAR? And more importantly, what have the French done to CAR in over a century of occupation because this country is still chronically underdeveloped!
I find it ridiculous, though unsurprisingly that many people we meet are surprised that two Cameroonian women are conducting an assessment of the situation in CAR. Besides the fact that we were sent here by our organization, I don’t see why anyone should be surprised that Cameroonians are concerned about the humanitarian situation in a neighboring country, considering the conflict has directly affected Cameroon! I think that is an issue that needs to be dressed on so many levels. Too often we expect and wait for Western powers to come to our aid and as neighbors are not as concerned as we should be for our welfare. In fairness, the countries of Central Africa, have come together and formed a peacekeeping force for the Central African Republic. And many countries, including Cameroon and Chad, have opened their doors to refugees from the Central African Republic. This being said, we need to be as proactive as possible in helping one another solve problems within the continent, so that foreigners are not shocked that neighboring countries are interested enough in the wellbeing of their nation that they would conduct assessment missions in order to deduce the necessary level of response and fill gaps in coordination. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, “If we don’t save ourselves, who will?”
12.07.2008
Traffic Takes on New Meaning
As a person of African descent, I’m not used to this type of attention in rural settings. My white counterparts almost always get it because many times children in rural settings have seen very few and sometimes never seen a White person. But in a truck with two Blacks, two Central Africans and two Cameroonians (the neighboring) country, this type of rejoicing seems odd.
But then I thought about what these villages and children have been through. Consistently for the past two to three years, Central Africans in the Northwest have heard trucks roll through their villages only to be caught in the middle of government and rebel cross fighting and having their homes looted and burned in retaliation for “supporting” military factions that have taken control of their villages. For years the rumbling of trucks has been an ominous sign to gather your family and belongings as quickly as possible because trouble was coming.
But in the last year, the rumbling of trucks has taken on new meaning. As aid agencies have began to set up in CAR, their trucks brought assistance to these families in great need. What was once used as an alarm of intruders has now become a ring of hope for improving their living conditions.
So though it was apparent that in some villages, the citizens where still petrified of foreigners in trucks (especially those villages who were currently occupied by military factions), there were others that rejoiced at the site. It was especially powerful that the children recognized what the presence of aid agencies meant for them and sent their good blessings.
12.05.2008
Week in Review
In Bocaranga, where I am now, things definitely seem livelier because this community seems to be doing much better, but many expats are just recently arriving to the community and don’t seem to have their social networks set up yet. And I would prefer to socialize with locals, but again considering the security situation, my American accent and inability to speak French fluently would make me a prime target for mischief.
When I was in Bangui, we went to a few restaurants and tried to stay out a bit later to enjoy the warm nights, but even though we were staying in a seemingly secure apartment/hotel there were tons of street children outside relentlessly asking for money and at one point our apartment guard even misbehaved.
But I will admit that ending the nights earlier have given me enough energy to get through my extremely long days and also enough time to go through all of the things I’ve seen and heard throughout the day. And, I’ve been consistently updating this blog, so that’s always a good thing!
Entering Rebel Controlled Territory

Right now there is a civil war in the Central African Republic (CAR) that has compounded the already destitute situation in the country. The main factors of the conflict are the government soldiers and a rebel group who does not want the current president (Bozize) in power because they are supporters of the previous president (Patasse), who the Bozize ousted. After a series of clashes for the past two going on three years, the two groups have taken control of different territories in the north. The situation is much more complicated than I am describing, but for the sake of understanding the basics of what I did today, I’ll leave it at that.
I’m sure you may be wondering how a group takes control of a territory in almost 2009. Well as I explained in a previous post, CAR is a very large country that is governed from the capital, in the deep south of the country. Due to the government’s low capacity, neglect, and downright indifference to the northern part of the country, rebels groups have been able to oust appointed state authorities (ie. mayors and other representatives) and take over complete control of provinces- authorizing the rule of law and even levying taxes. The government has sent forces to battle these groups and reclaim the land, which has led to several clashes within villages and thus the displacement of people.
Because the purpose of my trip is to assess the patterns of forced displacement, I have to go into these controlled areas and speak to villagers. And because CAR is severely lacking in infrastructure villages and towns are connected by single roads. Meaning everyone, citizens, humanitarians, rebels, and government forces all travel on the same road. Meaning if the government forces or rebels decide to battle that day one the road (which is where almost all of their battles occur) there is no way to escape it, except by running into the bush (which most displacement in this region has occurred).
So today, in order to find people who have been affected by conflict I ventured out into rebel territory. As daring and dangerous as this move was, it went quite well. Unlike other conflicts I’ve discussed on this blog, the main targets of this conflict are not civilians. Though civilians are affected because they are displaced due to fighting and often have their homes looted and burned in the crossfire, the rebel groups actually seek and fight government soldiers. For this reason, we were unable to drive through rebel controlled areas with ease. We slowed down each time we entered a village where they were posted, we greeted them and told them where we were going and then we continued. It was quite surprising. Though, I will say I was definitely uncomfortable seeing plain clothed males, some clearly as young as 15, holding rifles. I wish that they’d wear uniforms so that they could be more identifiable, but they are a rogue force and it is very apparent. And it was also apparent that in some communities the villagers were absolutely traumatized by their presence because they weren’t sure what violence they may bring in the form of looting or attracting other military factions. I couldn’t imagine living in a community that was controlled by a faction other than the state. It influences other groups to begin to force their own method of authority as well (which is being seen, but I will discuss in other post). All in all, it’s definitely the closed I’ve ever been to rebel forces and I’m happy things went well and I was given the opportunity to tell this story!
12.04.2008
Je suis arrive au Paoua
Once we entered the city, I was shocked that it was even considered a city or town... It is the most rural, country, and underdeveloped place I have visited in a loooong time. People still live in huts, the roads are not paved, there is no mobile phone service (which is unheard of for even the most underdeveloped communities!), and access to clean water, health care, and education are virtually non existent. It is quite disheartening that this region is referred to as an "urban center".
The people in this community have been through quite a lot. They've been displaced quite a few times due to political insecurity and through it all, have suffered from government neglect. Its a classic case of the failure of a centralized government, except Bangui, the capital of CAR, is in the deep south of such a massive and sparsely populated country, that the north doesn't seem to exist.
I'll have pics up in the coming days.
11.30.2008
Je suis arrive au Bangui!
Unfortunately, the airline office manager encountered the most aggressive people she would ever encounter in her life and had to find a way to get us on that plane because we weren’t leaving that office without a ticket. Let me preface the rest of this story by explaining that you can only fly in Bangui from Douala on Saturdays and Tuesdays. Therefore, if we did not get on this flight, it would throw off our whole itinerary and we’d be stuck in Douala with nothing substantial to do.
Somehow, the office manager found us a ticket on a completely booked flight, but suggested that even though the flight was scheduled to leave at 3:45pm and check in didn’t start until 1pm, we should be in line before noon… We had a host of other errands to run that morning, but arrived the airport by 12:30 and stood in line behind 10 other people, who had seemingly received the same advice.
After a series of other incidents which I will discuss in a later post, we both received our boarding passes, but there was no seat assignment. When we inquired further, we were told the plane had open seating. My colleague and I promptly changed into our sneakers! No, not really, but we knew that this was an indication that we just might have to summon our inner track stars.
But all in all we got on the plane and secured our seats. We watched the rudest air hostess I’ve ever seen blatantly curse out a passenger for about five minutes and threaten to kick him off the plane mid flight. I’m not sure what he said to her to deserve such a verbal tongue lashing, but you better believe I was all “please and thank yous” for the rest of the flight!
Once we arrived in Bangui airport, there was another long wait for baggage, but our fixer and driver were already there waiting for us, which made me feel very comfortable. Because once we left the airport, the city was a cloud of darkness. Pitch black to the point that I was forced to use my phone as a flashlight. In the following days I will tell you more about Bangui. I haven’t witnessed the extreme poverty that reports and my colleagues have described. Right now I am staying in a very nice apartment/hotel with wireless internet. And I have only visited places that are frequented by expats and high level officials and lucrative business men. But I am sure once I venture out into the North it will be quite a different story.
11.29.2008
Je suis arrive au Doula!
Nonetheless, after an hour wait, both of my bags arrived in tact and I went out to meet my brother and his girlfriend. It was a great relief to see them there and I was happy to have completed this long leg of my journey.
That night we had a delicious dinner of roasted fish, plantains, fries, and meondo. It was the best way to start of my trip, especially since I had to leave on Thanksgiving morning.
The city has changed for the better since I was last here. For one, it is no longer as polluted as it once was. I remember in 2005, my skin broke out in a rash almost immediately when I washed my face with the water and I could barely breathe in the city because of the pollution from cars and burning trash. But so far is has been quite different. Besides the fact that the city is much cleaner than it used to be, the air and water seem to be as well.
Now, I’m off to Bangui, Central Africa Republic!
11.27.2008
You Can Find Me in the "A"
This will be my first time in Cameroon without my mother. It will give me a chance to get closer with my brother, but because they’re as I’ve coined them “family strangers”, I don’t know what my interactions will be like with them, without my mother. But in due time I will see.
As for the Central African Republic, I’ve yet to read anything good about the country. They fall in the bottom 5th percentile in almost every category of the development index- education, infrastructure, health, etc. I’ve been told by those that have lived and visited there that I have nothing to look forward to. Thus, this will be a very interesting trip considering I’ve been encouraging foreigners and pessimists to discover the overlooked beauty and potential in Africa. But perhaps if I ignore the overwhelmingly negative outlook surrounding the country and approach it with positivity, I will still be able to discover the beauty in a country so large and filled with so many natural resources.
11.06.2008
YES WE CAN!!!

On November 4, 2008 Barack Obama became the first African-American president of the United States.
It was a very emotionally charged accomplishment with celebrations taking place all over the world- most notably in Obama's father's hometown of Kogelo, Kenya.

However, beyond the historical implications of this feat the world has so much to learn. For centuries Africans have been underestimated as a people and we have admittedly underestimated ourselves. Obama has not only shown young Black people in America and the Western world what they can some day be, but he has proven to the whole diaspora what we can strive to one day become as leaders of ourselves and the free world.An editorial in Kampala, Uganda's New Vision newspaper summed up my sentiments exactly. Africa should use this excitement as an impetus for democratic reform and realize not what Obama can do for Africa, but what Africa can do for itself in cooperation with the US due to an Obama administration (a sentiment encouragingly echoed by President Kagame).
Yes we can!
EDITORIAL
5 November 2008
Posted to the web 6 November 2008
Kampala
History was yesterday made when Senator Barack Obama swept the polls to become the first African American president since the birth of the USA more than two centuries ago.
Obama's victory sealed his catch phrase: "Yes, we can," and demonstrates how determination and high level of organisation can deliver effective results against all odds. The Developing World and Africa in particular, has a lot to learn from this.
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First, they should stop blaming their woes on others, put their act together and come up with strategies to pull the continent from backwardness. Yes, we can.
Secondly, the economic and political systems in the Developing World should be geared towards empowering the masses to recognise and promote talents and ability rather than mere party loyalty.
Thirdly, John McCain's acceptance of defeat and promise to work with Obama demonstrates that race and intrigue has no place in the modern world and that losing an election should not result into sworn enmity.
Obama has become president of the most powerful country in the world at the time the US is experiencing the worst economic crisis in a century.
However, the big problems he has at home should not obscure his view of the rest of the world. In particular, positive policies towards the Developing World like the African Growth and Opportunities Act, the President's Emergency Plan for Aids Relief and the Millennium Challenge Corporation - whether put in place by the Republicans or not should continue.
As the world celebrates, the Developing World should not expect immediate windfalls from the Obama administration. Because the US is facing the worst economic down turn, it is very easy to forget the rest of the world, especially Africa.
The Developing World should therefore, continue pressing for fair trade policies. As President Yoweri Museveni has always said, it is trade and not aid that will pull Africa out of poverty. Yes, we can.